1. Firstview

    one. Demna Gvasalia debuted men's wear for Balenciaga.

    Demna Gvasalia's spring/summer 2017 track represented not just his first men'south vesture collection for Balenciaga — but it was also the house'due south first men's wear bear witness in its 97-year history. The show, which was held on the roof of a prestigious individual high school in Paris, certainly fabricated a strong impression: The drove was filled with super-slim silhouettes, knee-high boots and extra-broad shoulders.

  2. From left: Balenciaga, Lemaire, Prada. Firstview

    2. Speaking of big shoulders …

    A handful of shows (including Balenciaga, at left, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Dolce & Gabbana) featured shoulders so boxy they looked like they were straight out of David Byrne's "Stop Making Sense" tour. Other trends to annotation: monochromatic piece of work uniforms, like the jumpsuits at Lemaire (middle), and sporty suits with utilitarian details. The Prada show, right, which was themed effectually the idea of global nomads, made the instance for having suits and hiking gear be all-in-one.

  3. Jamie Stoker

    3. There was a breakout star in London.

    Kiko Kostadinov , a 26-yr-former fresh out of Central Saint Martins, offered an exceedingly strong debut bear witness in London. Maybe nearly poignantly, the whole collection was inspired past his parents: His father works in construction and his mother in cleaning and child care. That translated to a rendition of a Japanese cleaning jacket with an inner nil-upwardly layer to minimize exposure to skin. "Without sounding dramatic, I go quite worried almost her health because she works with so many chemicals," he told T of his mother. (Read our studio visit with Kostadinov; and see more scenes from his show.)

  4. Dario Garofalo

    4. Gosha Rubchinskiy took over a rundown factory in Florence.

    This season, Gosha Rubchinskiy was a guest men's wearable designer at Pitti Uomo. While others presented their collections in one-time palazzos or lush gardens, Rubchinskiy took over a disused tobacco factory on the outskirts of the city. And instead of showing a collection that evoked purely his trademark Soviet nostalgia, Rubchinskiy told T that his theme "is virtually Europe." That meant collaborations with Italian sportswear companies similar Fila, Kappa and Sergio Tacchini. (Oh, and prepare to see tracksuits everywhere adjacent season.)

  5. Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times

    5. Raf Simons paid tribute to Robert Mapplethorpe.

    The designer also held his men'due south wear show during Pitti Uomo — and the collection represented his collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Simons used dozens of Mapplethorpe's works on oversize garments, telling Alexander Fury at Faddy: "I was very obsessed with the way he was framing. That was a very big thing for me, in the drove. To not make anything too complicated, to try to focus on the framing."

  6. Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

    6. Hood past Air held a surprise show.

    "I wanted to practise something eventful for men'southward week to celebrate Hood by Air in the men's market, merely I didn't want to exercise a fashion prove," Hood by Air's Shayne Oliver told T. So he did anything but: He took over a dark gay bathhouse in Paris's Marais — and instructed the thigh-loftier, boot-clad models, according to Guy Trebay, "to stem the halls of the bathhouse, somewhat in the manner of 'sex hunters' in a John Rechy novel." The whole affair fabricated for a show that was, given the ventilation, extremely hot.

  7. Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

    7. The Comme des Garçons show got anybody thinking.

    In her spring/ summer 2017 collection, Rei Kawakubo referenced Hans Christian Andersen'due south "The Emperor'south New Clothes," a tale of a king who is duped into paying for cute clothes that tin only be seen past those who are deemed competent and worthy, when in fact, the rex is parading around the boondocks naked. Bare-chested models wore shorts and elaborate translucent outerwear with phrases like "The King is Naked." Every bit Tim Blanks at Business of Style wondered: "Does Kawakubo come across herself as that truth-teller, exposing the mass illusions with which fashion sustains itself? It's not likely she'd fifty-fifty consider such a question remotely relevant."

  8. From left: Miuccia Prada, Willy Vanderperre Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times; François Goize

    8. Prada took over the political party circuit.

    Prada threw the party of the week in Milan, with a splashy 300-person dinner at the Fondazione Prada (attended by everyone from Jessica Chastain to Milla Jovovich). In Paris, at the Broken Arm concept shop, everyone from Grace Wales Bonner to the sound designer Michel Gaubert showed up to fete an exhibition of Willy Vanderperre's images for Prada in a prove called "Dis-dressed Redux," which will be in the windows of the shop until July 6.

  9. Odd Andersen/Agence French republic-Presse/Getty Images

    9. Talk was all about the Brexit, the future of the men's shows…

    The United Kingdom'southward vote to leave the E.U. sent a shockwave through the week — and was joined by another conversation: What will happen to the men'south show schedule? (Several brands opted not to show this season, with Burberry leading the way by taking its large men's testify off the London Collections Men lineup and combining its men's and women's shows.)

  10. Amy Lombard for The New York Times

    10. … and Bill Cunningham.

    On the final day of the shows, news hit that the universally loved lensman — a permanent fixture at the Times, at Fashion Week and anywhere people could be seen wearing clothes on the streets of New York — died at 87.